Vienna is the one city on our trip that I had been to previously and I was especially excited to return because it is the place where my grandfather grew up. It was a completely different experience seeing Vienna years later, after having learned German and studying the culture of the German-speaking world. Upon arriving, the first thing that we did together was look at a map. One of the main architectural features of Vienna is its Ringstraße, which encircles the inner city and is lined by buildings such as the Vienna State Opera and the Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Fine Arts). Walking along this street, I was slightly in awe of the feel of all of these grand and imposing buildings and felt the affluence of the Hapsburg Empire. It was really interesting to be in a place where just walking down the streets gives so much of a sense of the city’s history.
In Vienna, one can spend a lot of time seeing the many palaces and residences of the Hapsburgs, which, like the buildings along the Ringstraße, are quite impressive and ornate. Schönbrunn Palace, decorated in the lavish Rococo-style, was a summer residence of the Hapsburgs and gives a glimpse into the lifestyle of Emperor Franz Josef and Sisi. We also saw the Hofburg Palace and the Belvedere Palace, which I was excited to go to because I learned before this trip that my grandfather’s uncle was once the head groundskeeper there. They had a great collection of Klimt paintings at the Belvedere Palace and we also got to see Klimt’s studio when we went to a concert at Klimt-Villa.
The concert was very interesting and entertaining, especially for the cultural experience and observation of the very distinct Viennese theater and music culture. It was quite formal and the concertgoers had a certain type of pride and “Hochnäsigkeit,” roughly translated as haughtiness, for the art that isn’t as palpable in Berlin or in other cultural centers. And of course, the three rounds of clapping as the musicians walk on and off of the stage are a must in Vienna.
Another interesting characteristic of Vienna was the café culture. It is not uncommon for the waiters to be slightly impolite and neglectful of the customers, and what was supposed to be a quick lunch one day before exploring museums turned into an almost 2-hour long affair. Nevertheless, Viennese cafes are a great place to relax, read a newspaper, and enjoy some delicious Sachertorte.